By Victoria Shen
Of Greece’s more than 6,000 islands, you cannot miss what is arguably the country’s most famous: Santorini. Part of the Cyclades, this stunning island is about six hours from Athens by ferry or fifty minutes by plane. Regardless of the mode of transportation you choose, take the time to seek out a view of its distinct, crescent-shaped coastline that resulted from a massive volcanic eruption centuries ago.
Wondering how many days you should spend there? For a budget traveller, you can squeeze in a two-day itinerary without feeling overly rushed. However, for honeymoon-goers or photographers who want to catch the perfect photos of the caldera, an ideal trip would be three to four days.
Travellers most often stay in Fira, Santorini’s capital city and center of shops, restaurants, and nightlife. It is equidistant from the northern and southern ends of the island, making travel to both sides highly convenient. In fact, all buses start and end in Fira’s central station. A word of advice: public transportation only accepts cash (€2.20 to €2.70 per ride) and usually stops running past 23:00, even on weekends.
Day 1
To begin your first day the right way, order a generously-sized peinirli or a classic Greek frappe at Milopetra Bakery. Fill your stomach while taking a comfortable, twenty-minute bus ride from Fira to Perissa, one of Santorini’s iconic black beaches. Featuring jet-black sand, crystal-clear waters, and the backdrop of the Mésa Vounó mountain, you will feel like you have stepped into nature at its most spectacular. If you enjoy water sports, feel free to reserve a jetskiing or parasailing activity. Or, if you just want to relax, dig your feet into the heated sand and enjoy the sea breeze under a sunbed and beach umbrella. Enjoy a cocktail from a nearby bar or restaurant while you’re at it.
An equally iconic beach to hit via car is Kokkini Paralia, Santorini’s red beach famous for its imposing, rust-colored cliffs. The contrasting colors of crimson sand and sapphire blue seawater will etch an image you won’t find anywhere else in the world. Tucked away in a volcanic cove near the famous archaeological site of Akrotiri, the beach is rather difficult to reach—you’ll need to hike down a trail of loose and unstable rocks. To prepare yourself for this challenge, grab a quick bite to eat from the many food trucks at the top of the hill. Once you reach the waters, join the swimmers and snorkelers eagerly exploring the underwater rock formations and marine life. Beware that the small beach gets crowded during peak season, so try not to go during midday.
Once your hair is dry with sea salt and your skin is successfully tanned, ride the bus back to Fira. Just a turn away from the station is Mama’s Restaurant & Wine Bar, a highly rated Greek restaurant with a romantic atmosphere. Try their moussaka, a steaming hot casserole filled with layers of golden roasted eggplant, simmered beef, and a creamy béchamel sauce. Or, if you want seafood, you must have their squid stuffed with feta and vegetables. End your day with a glass of assyrtiko wine, a premium white wine from Santorini renowned for its distinct crispiness.
Day 2
Rise bright and early on your second day to catch the sunrise. Around 05:30, head down the narrow lanes in the northern village of Oia to snap a postcard-perfect picture with its whitewashed churches topped with blue cupolas. Don’t be shocked if a photo-taking line has already formed -smart visitors arrive as early as five in the morning to get a shot of the island without crowds. While golden hour lighting is indeed popular, late afternoon is the most crowded time of day in Oia. If you want a picture then, you’ll for sure spend two or more hours waiting in line just for five quick minutes at the domes.
After you’ve checked off this bucket-list experience, have breakfast at Fournos Passaris, a quaint family bakery open as early as 08:00. Inside, you’ll find traditional savory pastries like zambonopita as well as sweet ones like bougatsa. Because the cafe has very limited seating, you’ll have the perfect opportunity to walk the village’s winding cobblestone streets to other famous sites like the Church of Panagia Platsani in the main square and the Windmill of Oia. If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon a rooftop viewing point or secluded cliffside ledge. Relish the soft caldera views that most visitors miss before the crowds start arriving around nine or ten.
Once the shops are open, you’ll find that Oia has a great range to offer for souvenirs. From classic refrigerator magnets to decorated pottery sets to freshwater pearl necklaces, this village has every gift you could possibly think of. Oia focuses heavily on high-end luxury and is thus significantly more expensive than Fira on all fronts, so you might be doing more window shopping than expected.
As noon approaches, head to Four Winds Restaurant for a leisurely lunch. Claim a table on their terrace that overlooks the caldera. Try their famously tender gyros or their lamb shank with a thick cauliflower puree and delectable fig sauce.
Overate? Now is the perfect time to head to Ammoudi Bay. You can reach this idyllic port by hiking down the famed 278 steps that begin directly below Oia Castle. Make sure to bring a pair of sturdy shoes to avoid rolling your ankle; the terrain is incredibly uneven and thus unsuitable for high heels or wedges. Since the descent is rather arduous and almost vertical at times, try not to get distracted by the scenic volcanic view. Always watch where you’re stepping -there will be plenty of donkey waste lying around. Their excrement is inconsistently cleaned up even though donkey rides up and down the stairs are offered daily. However, this activity is highly discouraged by both locals and tourists due to concerns about animal mistreatment. So, if you’re not fond of the zigzag staircase, you can opt for a motor taxi down or -if you’re fine with splurging- a water taxi.
Once you’ve reached the picturesque port, continue ten minutes left toward Armonia Bay, a popular spot for cliff diving. Although the unofficial beach does not offer amenities, all you need is a towel and a place on the rocks. Beware that a comfortably smooth ledge is a rare find, though!
After a cooling afternoon swim, head back to Ammoudi Bay for a seafood dinner complete with seaside views. Among the numerous fish tavernas available, Ammoudi Fish Tavern is by far the most well-known. It’s not hard to find -just search for the sight of hanging octopus near the water’s edge. Once you’re settled, try the surprisingly popular caesar salad or the flavorful calamari. In terms of entrees, the sun-dried octopus and grilled grouper are two highly praised dishes. With your belly full, return to the village and soak in the world-famous Oia sunset.
Day 3
For your last day, you cannot miss Nea Kameni, Santorini’s central volcanic islet that is both active and open to visitors. To reach the volcano’s ridge, book a boat tour that takes you for a full-day journey from the Old Port of Fira. Arriving at your first stop, you have the option to pay five euros to access the volcanic trails. As you walk along the island’s rugged hills, watch your tour guide transform into a local expert on Santorini’s history and geology. Although the hike isn’t excessively difficult, be careful of the loose and slippery rocks. Soon, you’ll reach the summit and can enjoy an unbeatable 360-degree view of the caldera.
The most common next stop is Palea Kameni, a nearby island with famed hot springs nestled in a cove on its west side. Since there is no official port, all boats anchor 40-50 meters from the sulfur-rich waters. Travellers must jump off the boat and swim on their own toward the rejuvenating, warmer waters. Because the bay is rather shallow, mind the sharp underwater rocks that may scrape your skin. Also, as sulfur stains light-colored clothing, it would be wise to wear an old or dark-colored swimsuit.
After spending half an hour basking in the thermal waters, return to your boat for a final stop at Therasia, a serene island with the intimate charm of traditional Cycladic life. There, you’ll have ample time to eat at a local taverna. Taverna Camara is a popular option among visitors for its fast service and high-quality seafood. A personal recommendation is their grilled squid, which holds a satisfyingly smoky aroma of charcoal. Since there is no bad table at the restaurant, take advantage of their outside seating for pictures of your boat docked among the glittering Aegean waves. Lastly, drop by Tony’s Café for their twenty-plus gelato flavors and friendly staff. Once you’ve paid for your ice cream, enjoy it on a high rock at the waterfront for a glimpse of tranquil island life. You’ll soon be jolted awake from this dreamy stupor as your boat whistles to signal that time’s up. As you board your vessel back to the Old Port of Fira, close your eyes and let the warm golden rays of sunlight remind you how endless beauty can feel.
*Victoria Shen is a Princeton University student from China, doing a summer internship in Athens
