By Victoria Shen
If you’ve experienced Milos, you know you’ll never forget it. Known for its moon-like landscapes, emerald coves, and more than forty beaches, this Cycladic island is perfect for an overnight weekend trip. To avoid the massive tourist crowds in the afternoons and maximize your time, it would be worthwhile to rise early and catch a thirty-minute morning flight from Athens. Though bound to be busy, the airport has fast security, and delays are less probable earlier in the day.
Day 1
Catch a taxi after you arrive or, if you’re up for the slightly daunting task, hike your way North towards Sarakiniko Beach. Yes, the walk will take an hour and a half; however, the island is significantly cooler than Athens, especially in the morning. So, don’t pass up the chance to watch locals begin their day as the sun rises lazily and the roosters caw urgently in the background. Along the way, hike through some unique terrain of powdery white sand dunes as you avoid the highway. Be sure you take this trip with reliably strong friends who can help you up if you slip through the loose sediment.
Don’t let exhaustion keep you from finishing your journey. Know that your effort will soon be rewarded with a view of geological formations so special that they will make you feel like Neil Armstrong when he touched down on the Moon’s surface for the first time. Once you arrive, take a moment to enjoy the unusual characteristics of the west end of Sarakiniko Beach; they are attributed to consistent volcanic activity that has affected the strength of the winds—and therefore the waves—through centuries. The movements of nature have hence created striking, almost erratic rocky slopes that are world-famous for cliff jumping. The iconic limestone bridge of three ledges rising in height allow you to choose an activity that fits your comfort level. If you’re a thrill-seeker wanting to experience a similar exhilaration that professional divers such as Ginni van Katwijk do at this no-nonsense beach, perhaps you’ll jump off the tallest one of 35 plus feet. Beware, however, that injuries like bleeding gums and bruised ribs resulting from contact with the water are common. For something on the safer side, head to the most popular mid-level ledge of 24 feet or the lowest ledge of ten feet. Whatever you choose, keep in mind that the weather around the beach is very variable: since the west-facing shore is frequented by heavy winds and thus fierce waters, there may appear lifeguards that prohibit you from jumping for safety considerations.
Regardless of whether or not you jump, it will be exciting to explore the underwater formations of the beach. Notice how the temperature of the water shifts dramatically without warning: this phenomenon can be attributed to the active Hellenic Volcanic Arc on which the entirety of Milos sits; magma invisible to the eye heats seawater in certain areas and pushes the temperature upwards through the seabeds.
Bring proper walking shoes and cargo pants so that, once you’ve had your fair share of swimming around, you’re ready to scout out the abandoned mining tunnels carved into the chasm walls of the desert-like east side of the beach. As the polar opposite of Sarakiniko’s more popular white rock formations, this dry and rugged area dotted with only a few scrubby trees is reminiscent of the red rock layers of the Grand Canyon in Arizona.
Later, head into the picturesque capital town of Plaka to quickly wash off before a cheap but delicious lunch at Let’s Meat Souvlaki, a restaurant that serves great chicken gyros complete with crispy onions and paprika-dusted fries. They even have falafel wraps for vegetarians! As you eat, enjoy a view of the Aegean Sea with its surrounding white-washed houses, churches, and even Venetian castle. Grab a surprisingly salty pistachio gelato or refreshing lemon sorbet at Aggeliki after. Although they give generous scoops of ice cream, mind that you get significantly less if you ask for an equally-priced cone instead of a cup. If you’ve been indulging in too many ice creams recently, this local dessert paradise also has a variety of homemade cakes like tiramisu and mille-fueille.
The many locally-owned stores and gift shops around usually allow food inside, so you can eat as you browse. Ceramica Kymbe is the place to stop for a piece of unique room decor to bring home. Celebrated for its Neolithic-inspired pieces, this studio offers a colorful variety of minimalistic plates, mugs, and even flower vases. Nearby, Kyra sells handmade ornaments and trinkets at pretty fair prices, too. The wonderfully curated space itself makes you feel like you are stepping into a free art gallery instead of a store.
Head down the hill to your hotel or Airbnb early for a mesimeri, an afternoon siesta that every Greek takes seriously. Don’t worry, you’ll easily fall asleep having done your morning cardio. After waking up, grab something to eat at Artemis Bakery. Busy all day from the ripe time of 05:30 all the way to thirty minutes before midnight, they sell a wide selection of savory pastries like spanakopita and square-shaped pizza—perfect choices for a light dinner.
Day 2
For your second day, book a tour that will take you via boat—the only accessible route—around the once pirate-infested Kleftiko caves of Milos’ southwestern coast. Your boat will likely take two stops to Tisgrado and Gerakas along the way to the now-secluded area famous for its arching white cliffs and crystal-clear waters. Because you’ll stay on the boat for an hour before your first swim, make sure to bring any medicine to ward off seasickness.
Once the boat makes its first stop, you will have the option to either jump into the sea or take the ladder down. Whichever you choose, don’t get too eager too early—you’ll miss the handing out of free goggles and snorkeling gear that will magically appear from the cabin crew’s hidden chest of sailor’s goods. Once you’ve had your pick of equipment, leave all worries behind and blunge into adventure.
The boat will anchor for sixty minutes, which seems like a long time to be swimming around. But, time flies when you’re having a blast, so make sure to listen for horn calls beckoning you back. Once you’re aboard again, quickly claim a spot in the sun to dry off naturally. As you tan, the crew will surprise you with locally-made raki and snacks like kritsinia, a beloved Greek breadstick covered in sesame seeds.
Soon, you’ll take your second and, sadly, last stop at Gerakas. With only half an hour allotted to exploring, make sure to give yourself enough time to swim back, lest you want to be left behind. Thirty minutes will pass by in the blink of an eye, so try to get in line to get off the boat early. That way, you can be one of the first ones to reach the crystal caves, step onto the first sandy beaches of the entire island, and look up at the slopes of sand spilling over the nearby mountains. Before heading back, enjoy the majestic collage of green and pink rock that has been worn down over the years but seemingly left behind just for you.
*Victoria Shen is a Princeton University student from China, doing a summer internship in Athens
