by Katerina Vnatsiou

Athens is a living, breathing city, always evolving. While not every change is for the better, the city never stands still. Neighborhoods ebb and flow like the tide, each time carrying us toward fresh and exciting new destinations.

Agias Zonis: A sudden love affair

Can you imagine how many bars lined Agias Zonis Street just three years ago? Only one. Today, that seems almost impossible. Whether you visit by day or night, this once-overlooked pedestrian street buzzes with life. Cafés, restaurants, bars, carefully tended flower beds, locals walking dogs, and children riding bikes. It used to be a dim, quiet street you’d avoid after dark.

Everything changed in late 2022 with the opening of one bar that instantly became the talk of the town. Eprepe (Agias Zonis 1, +30 210 8644910), known for its exceptional cocktails, great music, and the unique twist of serving fried giant beans instead of chips, quickly drew a diverse crowd of Athenians. For the first time, locals began to see their neighborhood transform into a destination, sometimes with surprise, sometimes with a bit of grumbling.

From there, momentum grew. One venue after another opened, and within two years, Agias Zonis was transformed beyond recognition. A new Athenian hotspot was born. So, if you’re tired of the usual buzz around Agios Georgios Square or Fokionos Negri, know that the true pulse of Kypseli now beats on Agias Zonis.

Start your day with khachapuri -the traditional Georgian cheese bread- at Marili (Agias Zonis 26), a charming spot run by two passionate women where the bread sells out fresh from the oven. Then head to Bateu Ivre (Agias Zonis 8), inspired by a Rimbaud poem, for sunny coffees, afternoon beers, and flavorful small bites. For a twist on brunch and excellent coffee, Santo Belto (Agias Zonis 21) is the place to be; don’t miss their creative sandwiches, and browse unique pieces by Greek designers displayed throughout the space.

are cherished local gems embodying the authentic Greek café spirit. At Arizona Dream, Stella and her mother Lefki serve homemade meze that feels like a warm embrace -don’t miss the kolokythopastitsa, a traditional zucchini pie from Apeiranthos, Naxos. Just a few steps away, To Bakaliko is a cozy grocery store offering quality Greek products, such as sausages, cheeses, dolmas, legumes and they’ll cook these delights for you, serving them at their intimate tables, all at very reasonable prices.

Nearby, Dylan (Agias Zonis 38, +30 210 8668899) stands out as Kypseli’s “fine” dining spot, elegant yet unpretentious, perfectly in tune with the neighborhood’s down-to-earth charm. For a casual beer, Montreal (Agias Zonis 7, +30 210 8627021) is a local favorite, offering small bites, organic tsipouro from Lemnos, and excellent morning coffee. To cap off your evening, head to Iznogood & Nephew (Agias Zonis 28) for creative cocktails and a soundtrack of groovy 70s-inspired tunes.

Karytsi Square: The unexpected renaissance

In the early 2000s, Karytsi Square was one of Athens’ liveliest hangouts and for nearly a decade, it thrived as the place to be. Then the economic crisis hit. The lights dimmed, the crowd thinned, and the square seemed to fade into memory. Few believed it would rise again. But nightlife, like life, moves in cycles.

This summer, despite ongoing construction turning the cobblestones around St. George’s Church into a dusty path, Karytsi Square feels like an impromptu street festival. Neon lights flicker, music pulses, and young crowds gather -the perfect formula for urban revival.

Julia and Maria Spyropoulou, longtime fans of the square, took the plunge when it was time to open their own spot. Glug Glug (Karytsi Sq. 5, +30 210 3257673), a tiny wine bar tucked just behind the church, quickly became a beloved haunt. With candlelight flickering on the cobblestones, it’s the ideal place for a glass of wine and their exceptional pinsa -the quintessential post-work refuge.

Next door, Bless Me Father (Karytsi Sq. 2, +30 210 3249781) is another favorite, its neon sign “blessing” the entire square. Mornings start with brunch and coffee, afternoons with inventive plates like spinach pie salad and mac-and-cheese croquettes, and nights with cocktails as bold as the music blasting through the streets.

Adding a touch of Italian flair, Gloria Gati (Karytsi Sq. 6, +30 212 0000022) offers a romantic and refined all-day brasserie experience, serving freshly baked pizzas and steaming pasta dishes. And yes, you’ll find plenty of cocktails to complement your meal.

On the opposite side of the square, L’Alchimiste Bistrot (Christou Lada 1, +30 216 8090389) feels like stepping into an alchemist’s lair. True magic happens behind the bar, where creative, interactive cocktails you won’t find anywhere else are crafted with flair, while the kitchen serves up comforting French classics.

Craving a hidden courtyard even if you try to find it? Count exactly 34 steps. 34 Athens (Karytsi 8, +30 210 3227477) hides discreetly behind an unassuming door. Walk down the corridor (yes, exactly 34 strides) and you’ll discover a serene urban oasis, perfect for a quiet drink away from the buzz.

Then there’s Pairidaeza (Parnassou 3, +30 210 3210233), a living relic from the square’s heyday. Opened in 2003, its legendary wooden bar has hosted countless Athenians. With a standout wine list and an iconic pizza, it remains a beloved meeting spot.

Another longstanding cornerstone of Karytsi is Ale Blues (Karytsi Sq. 10, +30 210 3245705), a soulful cocktail bar known for its great music and vibrant atmosphere.

Agion Theodoron Square: A scene in constant motion

A couple of tourists sit quietly on the low wall surrounding the church of Agioi Theodoroi. The man rests his head in his hands, gazing thoughtfully at the sky, while the woman watches the passersby. Do they realize this small chapel holds a thousand years of history? A millennium… What did Athens look like back then? I can only imagine. But what I do know is that just a decade ago, this little square behind Klafthmonos -once known as the city’s “electrical supply” district- was hardly a place to hang out.

I remember a tiny, charming café called Kyklos, famous for its decadent hot chocolates. Today, the square buzzes with life: from politicians to groups of friends and curious tourists, all drawn to what has been called “one of the world’s best bars.” Agion Theodoron Square has exploded onto the scene, growing fast, and its story is far from over.

It all began with The Clumsies (Praxitelous 30, +30 210 3232682), a fixture on the World’s 50 Best Bars list, and Vermuteria Odori (Skouleniou 2, +30 210 3314674). The buzz grew even louder when Juicy Grill (Palaion Patron Germanou 7, +30 210 3229027) opened just around the corner. This legendary burger joint, which first made waves in Holargos in 2011, took a decade to arrive in the city center -choosing this square as its new home, signaling the rise of a fresh, vibrant hub.

Then came Dopios (Skouleniou 1, +30 210 3310049), a modern meze spot where celebrated chef Christoforos Peskias gives traditional Greek small plates a fresh, creative twist. (A little insider tip: the meatballs and popcorn shrimp are absolute must-haves.) His passion for the neighborhood inspired him to open a second gem nearby: Kapsa (Skouleniou 4, +30 210 3231366), serving handmade, charcoal-grilled gyros -something Athens hadn’t seen before- adding smoky charm to this buzzing corner.

The square has become a magnet for celebrity chefs who seem enchanted by its gritty yet vibrant spirit. Sotiris Kontizas brought a slice of Tokyo to Athens with his cozy ramen haven, Tanpopo (Evripidou 2, +30 210 7000252), infusing the street with the steamy allure of Japanese broth and noodles. Just steps away, Aris Vezené’s Manari (Agion Theodoron Sq. 3, +30 215 2153804) redefines the classic lamb-chop taverna with a modern edge, already earning its place as the season’s hottest new local hangout.

The freshest face on the block is Bakel (Dragatsaniou 8, +30 216 0703407), which opened its doors in early May. Here, the scent of freshly baked, fragrant bagels fills the air -so authentic you’d swear you were wandering the streets of Manhattan. Though Bakel is the newcomer, the square’s pulse keeps quickening: just across the street, chef Kontizas is quietly crafting his next culinary venture. The details are still under wraps, but word is, it’s already stirring appetites all over town.

Everyone’s Going to Neos Kosmos

“Let me tell you what I think”, Giorgos Mo says when I ask why he and his partner Antonis Liolis decided to open their brand-new Groovy Mango (Irakleous 22, +30 210 9239915) here. “Neos Kosmos is exactly what it sounds like: new people”. 

Groovy Mango is a gorgeous Thai spot, as groovy as its name promises, that just popped up two weeks ago amid the quiet residential streets of Neos Kosmos. We’re sipping cocktails alongside a divine pad thai, and a gentle evening breeze playfully lifts the hem of my skirt. “It’s the location”, Mo explains. “There’s always a breeze at night. But that’s not the only reason we picked it. Neos Kosmos still belongs to the people who really live in this city. When you go to the supermarket here, you don’t see tourists, you see locals”. And that’s a rare and beautiful thing. On one side of Groovy Mango, you catch a view of Filopappou Hill; on the other, the skyline turns soft purple when the jacarandas bloom along Frantzi Street.

Back in spring 2019, we called Neos Kosmos “off Broadway” when Fita (Ntourm 1, +30 211 4148624), Fotis Foteinoglou’s restaurant, opened and drew us into the neighborhood. Little did we know then that this “off Broadway” would quickly become one of our favorite corners of the city for a slow stroll. Then came Naif (Leontiou 10, +30 210 9334946), with its relaxed vibe; Teras (Vresthenis 45, +30 211 4180653), with its expansive courtyard and dynamic spirit, perfect for coffee, food, cocktails, and even exhibitions, workshops, and talks; Fika (Vourvachi 6, +30 210 9226010), irresistible with handmade croissants, sourdough bread, and hearty sandwiches; and La Bella Napoli (Roubesi 64, +30 211 1150602), delivering a slice of Italy to this beloved neighborhood.

And of course, long before all the new spots appeared, there was Thomas (Sarkoudinou 49, +30 210 9015981), serving legendary kebab tucked into fluffy pita since 1983. For classic Greek meze, Lostre (Pytheou 32, +30 210 9226600) is the place to be, while Titanas (Sismani 18, +30 210 9224454) offers the relaxed, timeless charm of a ’90s-style kafeneio. Truly, Neos Kosmos has something for everyone.