By Yannis Nenes
Greece delivers on its sun-drenched promises –endless summer, pristine beaches, turquoise waters– but those are just a fraction of what it has to offer. Its capital, Athens, embodies the nation’s deep-rooted culture and history, inviting you to explore its vibrant spirit. A city of striking contrasts, Athens is full of life yet reflective, modern yet steeped in antiquity. Here, the past and present don’t just coexist – they engage in a constant dialogue. In the following guide, you’ll find our personal “ABC” of Athens: essential insights and local flavor to help you make the most of your time in this storied metropolis.
ATHENS
At first glance, Athens may seem a little rough around the edges, but there’s a distinct allure beneath the surface. Former industrial zones now pulse with artistic energy. Galleries, underground venues, and performance spaces buzz with the spirit of experimentation. The spotlight is on art, with creators from across Europe flocking to join the scene.
At first glance, Athens may seem a little rough around the edges, but there’s a distinct allure beneath the surface. Former industrial zones now pulse with artistic energy. Galleries, underground venues, and performance spaces buzz with the spirit of experimentation. The spotlight is on art, with creators from across Europe flocking to join the scene.
ANAFIOTIKA
Nestled beneath the Acropolis, Anafiotika is a hidden gem: whitewashed houses, vivid shutters, and bougainvillea-filled alleys conjure up the charm of the Cyclades right in the heart of the city.
Nestled beneath the Acropolis, Anafiotika is a hidden gem: whitewashed houses, vivid shutters, and bougainvillea-filled alleys conjure up the charm of the Cyclades right in the heart of the city.
BEAD BRACELETS
Worn by both locals and tourists, bead bracelets blend tradition with modern style. Often featuring the blue “evil eye” for protection, these handmade pieces reflect a rich cultural legacy shared across Greece, Turkey, and Italy.
Worn by both locals and tourists, bead bracelets blend tradition with modern style. Often featuring the blue “evil eye” for protection, these handmade pieces reflect a rich cultural legacy shared across Greece, Turkey, and Italy.
BOUZOUKIA
The old-school Greek night out lives on in music stages where popular singers are serenaded with flower petals and whiskey. While plate-breaking is now more of a tourist novelty, younger Greeks lean toward Balkan, tribal, and fusion beats.
The old-school Greek night out lives on in music stages where popular singers are serenaded with flower petals and whiskey. While plate-breaking is now more of a tourist novelty, younger Greeks lean toward Balkan, tribal, and fusion beats.
BREAKING PLATES
Once a sign of wealth and celebration, smashing plates is now reserved for festive occasions and nostalgic tavern shows.
Once a sign of wealth and celebration, smashing plates is now reserved for festive occasions and nostalgic tavern shows.
BROKEN PAVEMENTS
Athens isn’t famed for flawless sidewalks, so ditch the stilettos and opt for comfy sneakers!
Athens isn’t famed for flawless sidewalks, so ditch the stilettos and opt for comfy sneakers!
CINEMA UNDER THE STARS
Outdoor movie nights are a beloved Athenian summer tradition. Watch classics and new releases under the evening sky.
CROSSING ONESELF
A subtle, heartfelt gesture: many Greeks cross themselves when passing a church – a blend of faith and habit.
A subtle, heartfelt gesture: many Greeks cross themselves when passing a church – a blend of faith and habit.
DRIVERS
Caution advised: Athenian drivers can be erratic, with spontaneous lane changes and phone distractions. Whether walking or driving, stay alert.
DERTI
A uniquely Greek word for soulful longing and heartbreak. The essence of many Greek ballads and blues.
DRUGS
Medical cannabis is legal in Greece, but recreational use remains prohibited and strictly penalized. Public consumption is not allowed.
Medical cannabis is legal in Greece, but recreational use remains prohibited and strictly penalized. Public consumption is not allowed.
EATING IN ATHENS
From gourmet restaurants to street carts, Athens is a foodie’s dream. Dive into gyros, mezze platters, and creative fusions of old and new Greek cuisine.
From gourmet restaurants to street carts, Athens is a foodie’s dream. Dive into gyros, mezze platters, and creative fusions of old and new Greek cuisine.
EVZONES
The ceremonial guards at Syntagma Square, dressed in traditional fustanella, perform precise routines every hour. Don’t get in their path – they won’t stop.
The ceremonial guards at Syntagma Square, dressed in traditional fustanella, perform precise routines every hour. Don’t get in their path – they won’t stop.
FOUSTANELLA
This pleated white kilt, with roots in resistance and nobility, is worn proudly by the Presidential Guard. It’s both national symbol and historic attire.
This pleated white kilt, with roots in resistance and nobility, is worn proudly by the Presidential Guard. It’s both national symbol and historic attire.
FRAPPE SOCIETY
Cold coffee is a lifestyle. From classic Nescafé frappé to trendy cold brews, Athenians sip slowly while socializing.
Cold coffee is a lifestyle. From classic Nescafé frappé to trendy cold brews, Athenians sip slowly while socializing.
GREEK COFFEE
Brewed thick and served strong, Greek coffee is a ritual. The grounds settle in the cup, inviting slow sips and sometimes fortune-telling.
Brewed thick and served strong, Greek coffee is a ritual. The grounds settle in the cup, inviting slow sips and sometimes fortune-telling.
GREEK COFFEE FORTUNE TELLING
Flip your cup and see your future! This folk practice uses leftover grounds to “read” symbolic patterns.
Flip your cup and see your future! This folk practice uses leftover grounds to “read” symbolic patterns.
HONEY
Thyme, pine and citrus blossom honeys are Greek specialties. Sample them at markets or in desserts, and consider them for a sweet souvenir.
Thyme, pine and citrus blossom honeys are Greek specialties. Sample them at markets or in desserts, and consider them for a sweet souvenir.
HORIATIKI SALATA
The classic village salad: tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, feta, and olive oil. Simple, fresh, and essential.
The classic village salad: tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, olives, feta, and olive oil. Simple, fresh, and essential.
INTERNET
Wi-Fi is widely available and fast. Most venues will share the password if you ask.
Wi-Fi is widely available and fast. Most venues will share the password if you ask.
SMOKING
Although officially banned in indoor public places, smoking remains common in Greece, especially outdoors.
Although officially banned in indoor public places, smoking remains common in Greece, especially outdoors.
JEWELRY SHOPS
Greek craftsmanship shines in gold and silver. Handcrafted jewelry, especially crosses and evil eye charms, are top souvenirs.
Greek craftsmanship shines in gold and silver. Handcrafted jewelry, especially crosses and evil eye charms, are top souvenirs.
KAFSONAS (HEATWAVE)
An essential summer word in Greece. Keep hydrated and shaded during a “kafsonas.”KEFI/KEFIA More than joy – it’s spirited exuberance, the heart of every lively Greek gathering.
KIOSKS
“Periptera” are everywhere – tiny shops with everything from gum to SIM cards. They’re open late, and often 24/7.
“Periptera” are everywhere – tiny shops with everything from gum to SIM cards. They’re open late, and often 24/7.
KOULOURI
A sesame-crusted bread ring, beloved for breakfast. Affordable, tasty, and sold on every street corner.
A sesame-crusted bread ring, beloved for breakfast. Affordable, tasty, and sold on every street corner.
MALAKA
A complex word playful among friends, insulting among strangers. Use with caution and never first.
A complex word playful among friends, insulting among strangers. Use with caution and never first.
METRO
Clean, fast, and safe. The Athens metro connects most major sites. Open daily till midnight (2 AM on weekends).
Clean, fast, and safe. The Athens metro connects most major sites. Open daily till midnight (2 AM on weekends).
MOUTZA
An open palm thrust forward? That’s a moutza – a traditional insult. Best not to mimic it.NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS Local tavernas, tiny cafes, and quiet parks offer a glimpse into everyday Athenian life. Wander off the tourist path.
An open palm thrust forward? That’s a moutza – a traditional insult. Best not to mimic it.NEIGHBORHOOD GEMS Local tavernas, tiny cafes, and quiet parks offer a glimpse into everyday Athenian life. Wander off the tourist path.
NEOCLASSICAL HOUSES
Inspired by antiquity, these buildings evoke Athens’ 19th-century revival. Don’t miss the Zappeion or Benaki Museum.
Inspired by antiquity, these buildings evoke Athens’ 19th-century revival. Don’t miss the Zappeion or Benaki Museum.
“NEVER ON A SUNDAY”
The Oscar-winning song by Manos Hadjidakis, forever linked with Athens’ cinematic charm.
The Oscar-winning song by Manos Hadjidakis, forever linked with Athens’ cinematic charm.
ORANGE TREES
Street-side orange trees are beautiful but bitter. Decorative only!
Street-side orange trees are beautiful but bitter. Decorative only!
OWL
Symbol of Athena, protector of the city. Today, artist Dimitris Kasdaglis hides pebble-painted owls for lucky explorers.
Symbol of Athena, protector of the city. Today, artist Dimitris Kasdaglis hides pebble-painted owls for lucky explorers.
PALAMAKIA
Clapping in rhythm is part of dancing and celebration. In old times, it was also how people called waiters in tavernas!
Clapping in rhythm is part of dancing and celebration. In old times, it was also how people called waiters in tavernas!
PHILOTIMO
Untranslatable, yet deeply Greek. It means honor, integrity, and doing good – even when no one is watching.
Untranslatable, yet deeply Greek. It means honor, integrity, and doing good – even when no one is watching.
PICKPOCKETS
Stay alert in crowded areas, especially on public transport and around tourist sites.
Stay alert in crowded areas, especially on public transport and around tourist sites.
QUEER ATHENS
Vibrant, visible, and evolving. Gazi and Psirri neighborhoods are LGBTQ+ friendly hubs with bars, clubs, and cultural events.
Vibrant, visible, and evolving. Gazi and Psirri neighborhoods are LGBTQ+ friendly hubs with bars, clubs, and cultural events.
REBETIKA
Greece’s urban blues: songs of loss, love, and rebellion. A soulful soundtrack from another era.
Greece’s urban blues: songs of loss, love, and rebellion. A soulful soundtrack from another era.
RELAX
In Athens, coffee is sipped slowly, conversations are unhurried, and life is savored.
In Athens, coffee is sipped slowly, conversations are unhurried, and life is savored.
SANDALS
Greek-style leather sandals are a summer staple. Visit local shops for handcrafted pairs inspired by antiquity.
Greek-style leather sandals are a summer staple. Visit local shops for handcrafted pairs inspired by antiquity.
SIESTA TIME
From 2 PM to 5 PM, many businesses pause. It’s the Athenian way to beat the heat.
From 2 PM to 5 PM, many businesses pause. It’s the Athenian way to beat the heat.
SPANAKOPITA
A savory tradistional pie of spinach, feta, and herbs wrapped in flaky phyllo. A vegetarian delight.
A savory tradistional pie of spinach, feta, and herbs wrapped in flaky phyllo. A vegetarian delight.
SUPERSTITIONS
Evil eye charms are everywhere. Greeks wear them for luck and protection.
SYRTAKI DANCE
Made famous by Zorba the Greek, this kind of dance isn’t traditional but is a joyful tourist ritual.
Made famous by Zorba the Greek, this kind of dance isn’t traditional but is a joyful tourist ritual.
TAXIS
Yellow and easy to hail. Use FreeNow or Uber to book. Tipping a few euros is appreciated.
Yellow and easy to hail. Use FreeNow or Uber to book. Tipping a few euros is appreciated.
TAP WATER
Safe to drink, but bottled water is widely available and inexpensive.
Safe to drink, but bottled water is widely available and inexpensive.
THEATER
Theatrical passion is alive in Athens. Watch a play under the stars at the Herodion or explore indie performances in small venues.
Theatrical passion is alive in Athens. Watch a play under the stars at the Herodion or explore indie performances in small venues.
TRANSPORT TICKETS
Affordable and reliable. Buy a 90-minute pass or daily ticket for flexible travel across buses, metro, and trams.
Affordable and reliable. Buy a 90-minute pass or daily ticket for flexible travel across buses, metro, and trams.
VEGETABLES
Fresh and seasonal. Try “gemista” (stuffed vegetables) or “briam” (baked vegetable medley).
Fresh and seasonal. Try “gemista” (stuffed vegetables) or “briam” (baked vegetable medley).
WINE
Sip Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, or Agiorgitiko at one of the city’s chic wine bars.
Sip Assyrtiko, Moschofilero, or Agiorgitiko at one of the city’s chic wine bars.
WALKING
Best way to explore! Wander Plaka, Anafiotika, or take in the view from Philopappos Hill.
Best way to explore! Wander Plaka, Anafiotika, or take in the view from Philopappos Hill.
YASSOU
A warm hello! Say it with a smile, and you’ll win hearts.YAMAS “To our health!” The Greek toast. Raise your glass and join the cheer.
A warm hello! Say it with a smile, and you’ll win hearts.YAMAS “To our health!” The Greek toast. Raise your glass and join the cheer.
ZORBA
Kazantzakis’ hero symbolizes the Greek zest for life. Spontaneous, passionate, and unrestrained.
Kazantzakis’ hero symbolizes the Greek zest for life. Spontaneous, passionate, and unrestrained.
THE GREEK DIET
Wholesome and flavorful: olive oil, seafood, fresh vegetables, herbs, and grains. It’s not just healthy, it’s delicious.
Wholesome and flavorful: olive oil, seafood, fresh vegetables, herbs, and grains. It’s not just healthy, it’s delicious.
THE GREEK BREAKFAST
Quick coffee and a pastry for most, but loukoumades (honey-drenched dough balls) are a sweet way to start the day.
Quick coffee and a pastry for most, but loukoumades (honey-drenched dough balls) are a sweet way to start the day.
